The Rossbrand high-altitude cross-country ski trail – where winter sparkles and the trail beckons

After my son went cross-country skiing with his nursery last winter and enjoyed it so much, I would like to take him cross-country skiing more often this winter.
Our goal: a proper mother-son cross-country skiing tour.
From our summer trips with the Papageno Cable Car up the Rossbrand in Filzmoos, I know that the Rossbrand high-altitude cross-country ski trail offers perfect conditions for this in winter. The pictures and stories from the friendly and helpful ‘lift operators’ have long given me the impression that it must look like Scandinavia up there – with wonderfully groomed trails and guaranteed snow.

So today we take advantage of the sunny winter day and set off early in the morning for the Filzmoos ski resort to take the first gondola up the mountain. Beforehand, we hire cross-country skiing equipment from one of the three sports shops, park the car and buy our lift passes – everything runs smoothly and stress-free. We receive excellent advice and also hire a small locker in the cross-country ski centre. Shortly afterwards, we are sitting in the gondola, marvelling at the breathtaking view over snow-covered Filzmoos and the glistening white Bischofsmütze mountain.
The view is already fantastic in summer – but in winter, covered in snow under a bright blue sky, it is simply magical. Almost picture-postcard, but in the most beautiful way.

Once at the top, the cross-country skiing centre is located just to the right of the mountain station. We use our ticket to open our locker and stow away our street clothes and everything else we don't need for cross-country skiing. And then we're off: cross-country skis strapped on, first turn... and suddenly we're both sitting on our bottoms. We laugh heartily, pick ourselves up and try again.

Since I really want to admire the panoramic curve with a view of the Bischofsmütze and the Dachstein massif in winter, we decide to take the easier right-hand trail, which is known as the Panorama Trail in summer. At my next tentative attempt to glide along easily, I almost end up back in the snow. The winter hikers on the separate hiking trail smile kindly.
It's harder than I remembered.

Elias, who did really well last season, is also struggling to find his momentum. A few metres ahead, he calls out to me: ‘Mum, I want to go back to the hut! I don't want to do this anymore! It's no fun!’
Just as I am about to call back that I had imagined it would be easier and am almost ready to give up, two athletic cross-country skiers approach us. They have heard our conversation and strike up a conversation with us.
Lisa and Ricardo introduce themselves and spontaneously offer to help us. Of course, I gratefully accept!

Lisa: ‘We're going to take it easy now...’
"Up here on Rossbrand, you're in exactly the right place to get back into skiing. We'll start together on the very flat section of the right-hand panoramic trail. At first, we'll leave the poles behind – that way, you'll have a much better feel for how the skis glide beneath you and find your balance more easily. I'll show you how to take small, comfortable penguin steps, and you'll soon notice that you're becoming more confident with every step."

No sooner said than done. We waddle along the trail like penguins – and laugh until we cry.

Ricardo: ‘Now let's practise gliding...’
‘One ski pushes, the other glides easily along. Don't worry, you'll get the hang of it again quickly – even if it feels a bit wobbly at first. And Elias, you'll see: after a few playful exercises, maybe a little “rocket” or a mini race, you'll have your swing back in no time.’
We stretch our arms backwards and glide as far as possible on one ski – like little rockets. And indeed: it's great fun and your balance comes back all by itself.

Lisa: ‘Once you feel stable, we'll add the poles...’
‘Take it easy, no pressure. The important thing is to have fun. We laugh at every little hop in the snow, take short breaks and enjoy the view of the Bischofsmütze and the Dachstein massif. That's the best way to learn. The trail isn't going anywhere. Step by step – and suddenly you're gliding along as if it were the most natural thing in the world. Practice makes perfect.’

We don't make it to the panoramic curve that day – but we're hungry! So, we treat ourselves to a hearty lunch at the Schörgi Alm. As a small thank you, we invite Lisa and Ricardo to join us. Elias has been raving all morning about the Kaiserschmarrn he polished off there on his own in the summer – and our mouths have been watering for ages.
Over lunch, the two tell us about the new Papageno Winter Ticket:
It allows you to take one return journey on the cable car per day throughout the entire winter season and go cross-country skiing, winter hiking or even snowshoeing at the top. There are also 3-day and 6-day tickets for the Papageno Cable Car, each with one return journey per day – perfect if you want to enjoy the Rossbrand for several days in a row.

We are immediately convinced: we will definitely be using these multi-day tickets more often this winter.
Because we now have two big goals:
➡ to reach the panoramic curve
➡ and stand at the summit cross of the Rossbrand in winter, with its 360° panoramic view.

We were really lucky to meet Lisa and Ricardo – their tips made it much easier for us to get back into cross-country skiing (and made our first wobbly attempts look a little more elegant). If you now feel like conquering the high-altitude cross-country ski trail, you are sure to find the right offer in Filzmoos: the ski schools in Filzmoos offer cross-country skiing courses especially for beginners – perfect for anyone who has little or no experience on the narrow skis. Experienced cross-country skiers, on the other hand, can simply jump straight onto the trail and enjoy the fantastic view.
Good to know:
The Rossbrand high-altitude cross-country ski trail can also be accessed with Ski amadé multi-day tickets, the Ski amadé ALL-IN Card White/Gold and the SuperSkiCard. A real insider tip – and who knows, maybe you'll actually encounter a reindeer like in Scandinavia... or perhaps a deer.

In summer, the Rossbrand is breathtakingly beautiful.
But in winter, it transforms into a quiet, shimmering winter wonderland that gives you goosebumps.

photo credits: Goi.Li Media, filzmoos.ski, CoenWeesjes, Christian Fischbacher, Anja Prommegger